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--- projekte:raspberry-pi:zero-usb-hub-housing [2015/12/28 03:17] – [Raspberry Pi ZERO USB Hub Housing] daniel
+++ projekte:raspberry-pi:zero-usb-hub-housing [2016/02/07 18:10] (aktuell) – daniel
@@ Zeile 1: / Zeile 1: @@
-====== Raspberry Pi ZERO USB Hub Housing ======
+====== Raspberry Pi ZERO USB Hub Case / Housing ======
-This is my take on a Raspberry Pi ZERO build into a USB hub. It has be done before and i don't take credit for the initial idea. This solution is using the existing case of the USB hub. Some other projects take out the USB hub pcb, piggybacking the Raspberry Pi ZERO onto it and redesigning a new casing around it. For this build i reused the existing case of the USB hub and fitting everything in it.
+This is my take on a Raspberry Pi ZERO build into a USB hub. It has be done before and i don't take credit for the initial idea. Some other projects take out the USB hub pcb, piggybacking the Raspberry Pi ZERO onto it and redesig a new case around it. For this build i reused the existing case of the USB hub and fitting everything in it.
 **Preview of the final result:**
@@ Zeile 8: / Zeile 8: @@
 ===== LogiLink USB Hub UA0141 =====
-The LogiLink UA0141 is a 4 port USB 2.0 Hub with a full metal housing and mounting holes.
+The LogiLink UA0141 is a 4 port USB 2.0 Hub with a full metal case and mounting flanges on the side.
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc146138.jpg |}}
-After removing the two screws at the bottom you can open the case. It's not the best design and has a lack of fuses. This USB hub also backfeed power to the connected computer and if you don't connect the external power supply to the hub it could eventually overload the USB port of the connected host computer. It's not a good design but for the Raspberry Pi ZERO modification it's fine. We want to backfeed power from the hub to the Raspberry Pi.
+After removing the two screws at the bottom you can open the case. It's not the best electrical design and has no protection fuses at all. This USB hub also backfeed power to the connected computer and if you don't connect the external power supply to the hub it could eventually overload the USB port of the connected host computer. It's not a good design but for the Raspberry Pi ZERO modification it's fine. We want to backfeed power from the hub to the Raspberry Pi.
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc146140.jpg |}}
-Remove the 4 screws holding the main pcb to remove it from the housing.
+Remove the 4 screws holding the main pcb to remove it from the case.
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc146141.jpg |}}
-Size comparison of the USB hub pcb and the Raspberry Pi ZERO. It's a perfect match and as we can see later fits perfectly in the metal case of the USB hub.
+Size comparison of the USB hub pcb and the Raspberry Pi ZERO. It's a perfect match and as we can see later it fits perfectly in the metal case of the USB hub.
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc146142.jpg |}}
@@ Zeile 26: / Zeile 26: @@
 ===== Modifications and electrical connections =====
-To make space for the Pi ZERO we need to desolder the indicator LEDs and rotate the electrolytic caps to mount them flat to the pcb. If you want you could reconnect the LEDs later or relocate them. The blue status LEDs for the USB ports are very bright and i don't need them. They light up if you connect anything to the port and are kind of pointless. It's not a indicator if the device is recognized or functioning at all.
+To make space for the Pi ZERO we need to desolder the indicator LEDs and rotate the electrolytic caps to mount them flat to the pcb. If you want you could reconnect the LEDs later or relocate them. The blue status LEDs for the USB ports are very bright and i don't need them. They light up if you connect anything to the port and are kind of pointless. __It's not__ a indicator light if the device is recognized or functioning at all.
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc146144.jpg |}}
-The 4 electrolytic caps (100uF / 16V) are to high and in the way for mounting the Pi ZERO. They need to be replaced by new caps with a smaller body or rotated by 90° flat to the pcb.
+The 4 electrolytic caps (100uF / 16V) are to tall and in the way of mounting the Pi ZERO. They need to be replaced by new caps with a smaller body or rotated by 90° flat to the pcb.
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc166151.jpg |}}
@@ Zeile 42: / Zeile 42: @@
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc166160.jpg |}}
-Use very thin magnet wire to connect the data lines of the usb hub to the Pi ZERO. Magnet wire is copper wire with a thin layer of insulation you have to remove at the ends you want to solder to the socket pins. You can identify the data lines cause they are the only two directly connected to the black IC to the left. Use a thin solder tip and no clean flux / soldering flux pen. Coat the ends of the magnet wire first.
+Use very thin magnet wire to connect the data lines of the usb hub to the Pi ZERO. Magnet wire is copper wire with a thin layer of insulation. Coat the ends of the magnet wire first. Remove the insulation at the end of the wire you want to solder to the socket pins. Put some solder on the tip of your soldering iron and hold the magnet wire in the liquid solder until the insulation is burned away and the tin sticks to the magnet wire. You can identify the data lines easily because they are the only two pcb traces directly connected to the black IC to the left. Use a thin solder tip and "no clean flux" / soldering flux pen.
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc176163.jpg |}}
-The Raspberry Pi ZERO has test points you can use to connect the wires from the USB hub. A list of test points and their function you can find on this site [[http://hackers.gallery/841/misc/raspberry-pi-zero-pad-probing]].
+The Raspberry Pi ZERO has test points you can use to connect the wires from the USB hub to. A list of test points and their function you can find on this site [[http://hackers.gallery/841/misc/raspberry-pi-zero-pad-probing]].
 For power we need test points ''PP1 (5V)'' and ''PP6 (GND)''.
@@ Zeile 72: / Zeile 72: @@
 **Read this steps carefully and measure twice!**
-Now we need cutouts for the HDMI and USB ports of the Pi ZERO. To mark the positions for the cutouts place the whole assembly (USB hub pcb and Pi Zero on top) in the case. Now mark the width and position for each cutout at the case.
+Now we need cutouts for the HDMI and USB ports of the Pi ZERO. To mark the positions for the cutouts place the whole assembly (USB hub pcb and Pi Zero on top) in the case. Now mark the width and position for each cutout on the case.
 I don't give you exact measurement for this cutout cause **you have to match it to your exact mounting position of the Raspberry Pi ZERO! Take care that you can close the lid as well! And insert the memory card to the Pi ZERO cause it sticks out of the side a bit and needs some additional space!**
@@ Zeile 114: / Zeile 114: @@
 Now close the top and insert the two screws at the bottom.
-**You are done!**
+**You are done!** Now you have a fully functional mini computer in a USB hub. Connect a HDMI cable, keyboard, mouse and optional a wifi stick or USB ethernet card and enjoy your Raspberry Pi ZERO.
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc186191.jpg |}}
 {{ :projekte:raspberry-pi:pizerohub:pizero-logilink-ua0141-pc186193.jpg |}}
+===== Future Improvements =====
+You can make a additional cutout at the top of the case for the GPIO port. With a optional header you could connect a ribbon cable directly to the Raspberry Pi ZERO to interface other hardware like sensors or a arduino board.