This is my take on a Raspberry Pi ZERO build into a USB hub. It has be done before and i don't take credit for the initial idea. This solution is using the existing case of the USB hub. Some other projects take out the USB hub pcb, piggybacking the Raspberry Pi ZERO onto it and redesigning a new casing around it.

The LogiLink UA0141 is a 4 port USB 2.0 Hub with a full metal housing and mounting holes.

After removing the two screws at the bottom you can open the case. It's not the best design and has a lack of fuses. This USB hub also backfeed power to the connected computer and if you don't connect the external power supply to the hub it could eventually overload the USB port of the connected host computer. It's not a good design but for the Raspberry Pi ZERO modification it's fine. We want to backfeed power from the hub to the Raspberry Pi.

Remove the 4 screws holding the main pcb to remove it from the housing.

Size comparison of the USB hub pcb and the Raspberry Pi ZERO. It's a perfect match and as we can see later fits perfectly in the metal case of the USB hub.

To make space for the Pi ZERO we need to desolder the indicator LEDs and rotate the electrolytic caps to mount them flat to the pcb. If you want you could reconnect the LEDs later or relocate them. The blue status LEDs for the USB ports are very bright and i don't need them. They light up if you connect anything to the port and are kind of pointless. It's not a indicator if the device is recognized or functioning at all.

The 4 electrolytic caps (100uF / 16V) are to high and in the way for mounting the Pi ZERO. They need to be replaced by new caps with a smaller body or rotated by 90° flat to the pcb.

After removing the parts the Pi ZERO can be fitted above the hub pcb. This image shows how it can be placed with 10mm to 12mm spacers.

Now solder in 4 new 100uf / 16V capacitators flat to the pcb or reuse the old desoldered caps. You might have to use short pieces of copper wire cause the old component leads are cut too short. All components have to be lower than the four USB sockets! Otherwise you will have problems fitting everything back in the case.

Use very thin magnet wire to connect the data lines of the usb hub to the Pi ZERO. Magnet wire is copper wire with a thin layer of insulation you have to remove at the ends you want to solder to the socket pins. You can identify the data lines cause they are the only two directly connected to the black IC to the left. Use a thin solder tip and no clean flux / soldering flux pen. Coat the ends of the magnet wire first.

The Raspberry Pi ZERO has test points you can use to connect the wires from the USB hub. A list of test points and their function you can find on this site http://hackers.gallery/841/misc/raspberry-pi-zero-pad-probing.

For power we need test points PP1 (5V) and PP6 (GND).

For the usb data lines we need PP22 (USB D+) and PP23 (USB D-).

To power the Pi ZERO you can connect two wires (+5V and GND) anywhere to the main power rail of the USB hub. All USB ports are directly connected to the power socket of the hub.

Now we need a hole in the USB hub pcb to mount the Pi ZERO with a 12mm spacer and a 3mm diameter screw. Make sure to mark the exact position first and take care not to destroy any traces on both sides of the USB hub pcb! Check the top and bottom side for clearance! Drill the hole with a 3mm drillbit. Use a proxxon minidrill (or a dremel) and carefully drill the hole.

Here you can see a overview of all 4 connections made between the Raspberry Pi ZERO and the USB hub (power and USB data lines).